Eat your heart out – culinary experiences on Bornholm #1
Bornholm is a cornucopia of fresh, tantalising ingredients, and in the later years more and more restaurants and food entrepreneurs have sprouted on the island in the Baltic Sea. Gone are the days when Krølle Bølle ice cream (Krølle Bølle is a local troll branding, among other things, a special variety of ice cream) was the go-to specialty on Bornholm. Today you’ll be hard put to choose from an abundance of delicacies – toffees, local beer, pasta (Italy, go home!), smoked fish, juice, etcetera. But why choose – why not sample everything?
Allinge Røgeri and B’s Fiskeværksted
Besides being outdoorsy on Bornholm, I ate my heart out. No wonder my trousers won’t fit me anymore. I had no less than two different kinds of Sol over Gudhjem (a local delicacy sporting smoked herring, a raw egg yolk and raw onions on rye bread). The first one was on Allinge Røgeri, a cosy smokehouse with an authentic feel and a smashing view over the Baltic Sea.
The other one was on B’s Fiskeværksted, somewhat confusedly being owned by Per Hansen (with a P – I checked, but there’s of course a story behind the name). B’s Fiskeværksted is a delightful place with a simple, but very delicate menu. Besides the classic fish dishes, Per serves a few signature dishes – I had the shooting star (a classic, Danish open sandwich with a fish fillet coated in breadcrumbs and fried, a steamed fish fillet, shrimps and garnish), while my fellow travellers had fish ‘n chips, omelette with smoked herring and codfish in rye bread respectively. Everything was delicious and really really fresh! Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t at its best when we visited, but I’ll definitely come back when it’s warmer and less windy to enjoy a meal from the outdoor sun loungers, just at the water’s edge.
That was lunch taken care of. Dinner … oh my, I can’t even write about it without salivating all over the keyboard!
Hotel and restaurant Nordlandet
We were accommodated at Hotel Nordlandet in Allinge-Sandvig (north-Eastern Bornholm) – a newly renovated hotel with lovely rooms, a restaurant on the ground floor and Penyllan, a beer bar with locally brewed beer, in the basement. Unfortunately Penyllan was closed during our visit, so we had to make do with beer from Svaneke Bryghus. Tough job, but someone’s gotta do it, right?! :-)
While most people in Denmark probably have heard about the Michelin Star restaurant Kadeau, fewer have probably heard about Restaurant Nordlandet. The team behind Nordlandet is never the less the same as the team behind Kadeau, thus presenting its visitors with simple, mouthwatering dishes from the Nordic cuisine. But where Kadeau is said to be very dogmatic (unfortunately I haven’t been there. Yet!), Nordlandet is less so – the menu is classic, but inspired by local ingredients. We had dry-aged ribeye steak served with béarnaise sauce, two types of potatoes, and romaine lettuce with bacon and tomatoes. The dessert was an ingenious serving of buttermilk from Bornholm, white chocolate and verbena, and for coffee we had some seriously yummy chocolate confectionery. The wine was good and plenty, and let’s just says that I was happy, I didn’t have to do anything else than walk up the stairs to my room afterwards …
Er, by the way: The menu isn’t the only tempting thing in the restaurant – the great panorama view of the Baltic Sea is breath-taking and the interior is both tasteful and simple at the same time. Furniture and tableware are especially designed for Nordlandet, and every detail is perfection. From the bottle green fabric on the lounge chairs matching the deep green colour of the walls in the lounge / library to the sealskin seats on the chairs in the conference room and the brandy coloured leather seats on the restaurant chairs. Oh so elegant and durable at the same time.